|
wi
|
|
|
Cultivation of sweet pepper Varieties: Sweet peppers are usually green and mature to either red, yellow or orange. Descriptions of varieties are available for professional growers from Paramount Seeds, Inc . Sowing: Sowing sweet peppers should be done preferably in trays a in temperature controlled greenhouse. The optimum temperature for germination is 25o C and the optimum germination time is 7 - 8 days. It is advisable to sow in trays. In case of extended propagation, transplanting should be done after approximately 20 days. The total propagation time on the nursery depends on the desired plant size. Plant density : The number of shoots per m2 determines the plant density. Depending on the date of transplanting and length of the cultivation, 6 - 7 stems per m2 is advised. This means 3 (three) plants per m2 for the 2-stem system (see photo). Transplanting : The age of the plant to be transplanted is an important matter. Transplant a young plant with a well developed root system. An old plant is not advised. It will turn into a generative stage too early. Do not allow the plant to set fruit at an early stage. The aim is to create a "factory" first. Therefore you need a sturdy plant with a well developed root system in order to ensure sufficient vegetative development. After that the plant will be able to produce a good quantity of well developed fruits. A badly developed root system can cause blossom end rot. Temperature after Transplanting : Sweet pepper is far more sensitive to temperature and moisture extremes than many other crops. After transplanting, the optimum temperature is approximately 23o C by day and 18-21o C at night. Minimum soil temperature 20o C. When sowing in summer achieving these temperatures will not be a problem. Where sweet peppers are grown in the winter period, plan the transplanting date so the plant and the root system are developed before temperatures have dropped too much. Although optimum temperatures for sweet pepper are relatively high, extreme temperatures above 35o C are harmful and will prevent fruitset. First fruitset : It is not advisable to leave more than 4 - 6 fruits in the first fruitset (2 or 3 fruits per stem). Remove the first flower, or king fruit, that appears on the stem and remove any young fruits that are deformed as early as possible. This ensures that only that the best quality fruit is taken to harvest. If vegetative growth is limited, remove the flowers from the first and second axils also. Fruitset and temperature : There is a close relationship between temperature and fruitsetting. High average temperatures will stimulate vegetative growth. Increasing the difference in day/night temperature will encourage the plant to grow more generatively while decreasing the day/night temperature difference will stimulate vegetative growth. At temperatures 12o C or below pollen quality will fall and seedless or misshapen fruits may be formed. You may need to consider installation of heating equipment if temperature is a limiting factor, this will benefit both yields and quality. Pruning : If planting in August/September, if using the two-stem system in a heated crop, we advise 6 - 7 stems per m2 . Choose the strongest stems and remove the others. The fruits on the main stem tend to be a better quality than the fruits that develop on the side shoots. the correct pruning system will encourage production on the main stem. Pruning at one leaf behind the fruit flower in the winter time will allow more light into the plant canopy at times of low light intensity. As temperature increases prune the side shoots at two leaves to avoid excessive radiation which may cause problems such as sunscald and fruit cracking. Fruit Quality - There is an undisputed relationship between climate and fruit quality. Some fruit diseases must be mentioned (see also our useful links page): Blossom end Rot : Possible causes can be
Fruit cracking, especially on red fruits , can greatly reduce the value. Ensure the fruits are not wet during the night and early morning also, day/night temperature difference can contribute to this problem. Mature fruits also are less flexible and hence are more sensitive to cracking. Excess radiation, especially in spring and summer can easily cause sunscald. Prevention by reducing the amount of direct sunlight that reaches the fruit. Firstly create extra shade by correct pruning methods but also take advantage shade cloths and whitewashing etc.
|
|
Contact Us:
|
